Today was a fairly short day. Departing west from Dingboche before turning north-west, we passed through Dusa and soon thereafter arrived at Dughla, a village that sits in a valley at the southern end of the Khumbu Glacier. We stopped at Dughla for a tea-break before crossing a bridge to the west side of the Khumbu Glacier and then climbing quite steeply to the north. The track here passes some stone memorials built in remembrance of climbers who have lost their lives in the Himalayas. Views from here are simply magnificent – I found myself stopping quite often to turn around and take in the fantastic vista.
After negotiating the short Thokla (Dughla) Pass the trail continues north to the village of Lobuche. Lobuche was packed with trekkers and the room we thought we had booked was not available. Again our guide searched for an alternative, which ended up being in a half completed lodge near where we were supposed to be staying. Thankfully, the half that was completed included most of the roof and a bed, but there was no sealing between the doors and windows and the walls, and the floor was gravel, which made for a somewhat uncomfortable night.
I’d also started to suffer from gastro and as a result of the altitude had developed a headache that wasn’t to go away until we reached Tengboche on the way back. I slept only fitfully and at one point woke up feeling like someone was pounding a nail between my eyes. Paracetamol tablets helped suppress the headache but couldn’t get rid of it. The altitude also affects your appetite – despite expending a lot of calories I could barely eat a thing. Still, the next day was the day we’d reach base camp, so while tired I was still keen to keep moving.
Day 6: Dingboche (4410m) to Lobuche (4910m) (net height gain 500m)
About 3 hours / 7.7 kms